Fashion, at its most compelling, is an exercise in instinct: the art of knowing that true luxury lies not in embellishment alone, but in the precision of every detail and the confidence of a woman who knows exactly who she is. This is the territory Ammara Salahuddin occupies and thrives in. Through Salahuddin & Pasha, she has cultivated a design language that is at once opulent and restrained, steeped in South Asian craftsmanship yet intentionally contemporary, with an avant-garde sensibility that refuses to be diluted for mass appeal. 
Having worn her creations myself, I can speak to the thought that goes into her signature pieces. Ammara has a discerning eye for the garment, and for the woman who will wear it. She understands the nuances of personal style, listens closely to what her clients want, and brings exacting attention to detail to pieces designed to make them memorable and unique —leaving a lasting impression. When I last interviewed Ammara in 2021, Salahuddin & Pasha was navigating the uncertainty of a pandemic-ravaged fashion industry.
Five years on, the label has continued to refine its identity, reaching an increasingly global clientele without surrendering the distinctiveness of its aesthetic. Her latest collection draws inspiration from the grandeur of the 15th-century Turkish Sultanate, while an entirely AI-generated campaign ventures into new visual territory. It is a fitting reflection of a designer whose gaze remains firmly fixed on the future, even as she mines the richness of the past.
For MTG, I reconnect with Ammara to explore the evolution of her design philosophy, the enduring value of craftsmanship in an increasingly crowded luxury market, and her vision for a Pakistani fashion house that is confident enough to chart its own course.
A Distinctive Language of Luxury
Maheen: When we spoke in 2021, you described Salahuddin & Pasha as being for people who are “bold and driven,” with a modern aesthetic and timeless appeal. Five years later, how has your definition of the Salahuddin & Pasha woman—and your own design language—evolved?
Ammara: We have always prided ourselves on creating avant-garde designs—with a touch of whimsical cool. Salahuddin & Pasha is a brand for women who appreciate South Asian craftsmanship and heritage, with a contemporary twist. We are a luxury Fashion house specializing in contemporary, high-quality ensembles for women that stand out. That said, our designs may not appeal to everyone, but thousands of women love our work and keep buying it.
Why Craftsmanship Comes First
Maheen: Your work has always had this interesting tension between opulence and restraint—beautiful fabrics, intricate craftsmanship and embellishment, but often very clean, contemporary silhouettes. How do you decide when a piece needs more, and when to stop?
Ammara: For us, Exquisite tailoring is the foundation of the design; embellishments, detailing, and the cut all shape an outfit, but if it is poorly made, you can have all the embellishment in the world, and it still won’t look right. We take great care to help women feel confident in our ensembles, and we take great pride in our exquisitely crafted womenswear. Our design philosophy is modern and contemporary, for today’s jetset woman.
Ottoman Opulence, Reimagined
Maheen: What was the emotional or visual starting point for this Fall collection—and was there a particular woman, place, artwork, era, or feeling that you kept returning to while designing it?
Ammara: Our Fall collection features striking colors and rich fabrics like hand-woven gold lame’ – which is part of our signature. The 15th-century Turkish Sultanate inspired me, and our design and shoot reflect that. We did the entire shoot with AI for the first time, and we went to great lengths to make the fabric feel real. Living in the now, while appreciating the past.
Pakistani Heritage, Global Ambition
Maheen: You’ve built Salahuddin & Pasha with a distinctly Pakistani design vocabulary, but your clientele has become increasingly global. How do you think about designing for a woman in Karachi, Dubai, London, or the U.S. without losing the cultural identity of the clothes?
Ammara: We’ve created a niche for ourselves. I studied in Paris and am a stickler for exquisitely made clothes. Our global clientele sees that and knows they are getting a unique product that everyone and their mum isn’t wearing! Clothing is a form of art and expression for me; our Global clients include Dame Peggi Gou (the inspiration behind the Hollywood movie Crazy Rich Asians), who has a penchant for exquisitely crafted statement clothes and appreciates it. We stay in our lane and don’t compete on price.
Beyond Creativity: Building a Fashion House
Maheen: Since our first MTG conversation, Salahuddin & Pasha has gone from being a relatively new label navigating the pandemic to an established brand with a growing body of work. When you look back at that version of yourself—and the designer you are today—what are you most proud of, and what are you still trying to prove to yourself?
Ammara: Thank you- how kind of you to say that. I’m proud to help women and their families feel their best on their big day. Whether it’s a lifetime event like a wedding, designers have a big responsibility.I once had a bride’s father clasp my hand and thank me, emotionally, for making his daughter look so beautiful on her wedding day.
That was the first of many to come. Attention to detail is a must. Those moments make it all worthwhile. That said, it’s important to have a business mind- creativity gets you far, but navigating economies and wearing a business hat, so to speak, is key to a successful company.
Author’s note: Five years on, Ammara Salahuddin builds on a simple philosophy: exceptional craftsmanship is non-negotiable, and a distinctive vision sets a designer apart. Salahuddin & Pasha’s strength lies in knowing exactly what it stands for—and refusing to dress like everyone else.
Maheen Mustafa wrote this piece. As a social impact journalist, former director of the Committee for Children, and founder of MTG—a Seattle-based media outlet and production house dedicated to elevating BIPOC and immigrant narratives-she exemplifies leadership in media that drives social change. She also hosts, executive produces, and directs @TheAmericanSide; follow her @MaheenM_ to see her work in action.